Several hundred meters from the Danjo Garan stands Kongobuji, the head temple of some 3,600 Shingon temples nationwide. By Koya-san’s standards, Kongobuji is a newcomer, having been built in 1593 by the then-ruler of Japan, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, in honour of his deceased mother. But while Hideyoshi loved his mum, he wasn’t fond

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